Of Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri (祇園祭) started the other day, but it's officially in full swing now. So, what is the matsuri about? It began in the 11th year of the Jougan Era (貞観11年), or the year 869 A.D. here in Kyoto as a way to prevent disease. At that time, people feared what was called the a curse from Emperor Kozu (来ず天皇の祟り). Therefore, in the southern part of Nijo Castle (二条城), there is what is called the 神泉苑, which as far as I can tell means a park which contains a fountain for the gods. In those days, to protect Japan, the festival was fheld. Furthermore, portable shrines (神輿) were carried around Kyoto, and so this is how the festival's name came to be called the 祇園御霊会(ぎおんごりょうえ), or the Gion Festival to Meet with the Spirits. A Goryoue - the word listed above - is a festival that is held in order to appease evil spirits that would otherwise do harm.

On the floats, which are called hoko (鉾), there are a group of musicians who play flutes (笛), drums (太鼓), and bells (鉦). These bells have a very distinctive sound, and this music commonly associated with summertime in Japan. It's been playing throughout the grocery stores for the past month. Most Japanese characterization this sound as kon-chiki-chin.  For the past week or so, in the Shijo-Kawaramachi area, they have been building these floats. They weigh around 30 tons, and are made of wood. They are decorated with parasols, trees, figurines, images of battles, etc. They represent the moon or the like.

Last night was what was called 宵々山 (yoiyoi-yama). This is two nights before the parade. It's when most of the food occurs, and people can go to listen to the music.

Tonight was what is called  宵山 (yoi-yama), the night before the parade. This morning was a formal tea ceremony and tonight was a traditional dance. The dance included defeating evil spirits and other such traditional stories.

Tomorrow is the big parade, which is characterized by the act of having these 30 ton floats. It takes a team of around 50 guys per float, which is quite impressive. Unfortunately, they have to turn them around corners, and since they're made of wood, this isn't the easiest task. Luckily, through sheer will alone, the team is able to do it. What they do is put a bunch of wooden planks beneath the wheels, and then soak these with water. They then literally drag the float across them. I've found some handy videos below that you all might enjoy.

Gion Matsuri
Turning the Float

Michelle